Frequently Asked Questions

Where are the most common sources for air leaks in the home?

Air leaking through holes and cracks accounts for up to 20 percent of heating and cooling costs (or up to 10 percent of total energy costs) in a typical home. Many air leaks are easy to find because they are easy to feel and are located in common areas of the house—especially around windows and doors. But hidden air leaks in attics, basements, and around chimneys are often more significant sources of energy loss. Seal these areas properly to keep your energy from slipping away.

Where in my house should I caulk?

You should caulk gaps, cracks, or joints in areas where you want to keep water and/or air out in your home. The list below includes common places caulk is needed.   ♦ Penetration in the attic floor, and cracks where air can enter/exit from the outside   ♦ Windows and doors   ♦ Chimneys and flues   ♦ Basement rim joists (where the foundation meets the wood frame)   ♦ Where faucets or pipes meet the   ♦Cracks in exterior siding or where two different materials meet (e.g., siding and chimney or foundation)   ♦ Around air vents and ducts   ♦ Penetrations in the walls such as electrical wiring and outlets, plumbing, recessed lighting, and phone or TV  cables   ♦ Leaks in gutters or cracks in flashing   ♦ Kitchen sinks, faucets, backsplashes, countertops   ♦ Bathroom tubs, showers, along top of shower surround, backsplashes   ♦ Between crown molding and wallboard

What tools will I need to caulk?

♦ Caulk removing tool (to remove old caulk and debris)   ♦ Household cleaner or rubbing alcohol   ♦ A stiff wire brush (if repairing masonry or concrete)   ♦ A clean, dry cloth or (lintless) paper towels   ♦ Painter’s masking tape   ♦ A backer rod (if the gap is more than 1/2″ wide or deep)   ♦ Caulk gun   ♦ Mineral spirits or isopropyl alcohol (when using silicone)

Does caulk go bad?

Mimdy caulk features a “Shelf life” on the cartridge. This should tell you if the caulk is still fresh and able to be used. If you cannot read the use by date or want to test the caulk prior to starting a project, there is also a simple test that only takes 10 to 15 minutes. Run a small bead on a piece of cardboard. If after about 15 minutes, the product doesn’t form a “skin,” the product is probably too old and won’t ever fully cure (dry completely).

What can I use to make the curing time longer, or to thin the caulk?

If you are a do-it-yourselfer, we do not recommend attempting to thin caulk at home. You should choose the product best suited for your application. If you are an industrial customer, contact a customer service representative at export@mimdy.com for detailed information.

I followed the instructions on the back of the tube; however, the caulk is taking a very long time to cure—–why?

The air temperature and humidity in the air can affect how long a silicone caulk takes to cure or an acrylic caulk to dry. A silicone caulk will cure slower when it is cool and the air is dry (low humidity). An acrylic caulk will dry slower when it is cooler out or more humid. Make sure to vary your wait time based on the humidity level.

What can I use on my electrical components?

We recommend that consumers not use silicone caulk in any electrical application. Contact a customer service representative at export@mimdy.com for more information.

Can I apply new silicone on old silicone?

For the best adhesion, we recommend removing the old silicone. New silicone will bond to old silicone, but the bond is not as strong as if it is adhered to a clean surface.

Do I have to do anything to the surface material before I apply a caulk?

Some materials, such as concrete, soft woods, stone, specially treated metals, plastics, or other man-made materials, might have unpredictable surface characteristics. Therefore, we recommend that you test for adhesion by applying the caulk to a small area before proceeding with an entire job. It is also very important to prepare surfaces properly. This should be done on the same day you apply the product. The following are guidelines for preparing a variety of surfaces.♦ Concrete, masonry, and stone: Use a wire brush to remove the old caulk, dirt, dust, and loose particles. All contaminants and impurities must be cleaned off, such as concrete form release agents, water repellents, and other surface treatments and protective coatings.♦ Porous surfaces: Use sandpaper or a wire brush where necessary to provide a sound, clean surface.♦ Metal, glass, and plastic: Clean the surface with a solvent such as mineral spirits or a lacquer thinner. When using solvents, always wipe the surface dry with a clean cloth or lintless paper towels. Never allow a solvent to air dry or evaporate without wiping. Caution: Only use these solvents in a well-ventilated area and follow all safety precautions and instructions listed on the product label. When solvents are used, proper safety precautions be observed.♦ General: Do not use silicone caulk on any galvanized surface. Cleaning with detergent or soap and water is not recommended because silicone will not adhere to surfaces with any soap scum present.

Do I have to use different Mimdy caulk products for different jobs?

Yes; caulk differs in formulation and intended use. Its physical properties, including adhesion, flexibility, color, opacity, finish, elasticity, and durability vary significantly so it’s important to select the right product for each job.

How long will caulk release an odor?

Caulk releases an odor during its cure cycle. Most of this process occurs during the first 24 hours after the product is applied.

At what temperature can caulk be applied?

Mimdy silicone caulk can be applied in a temperature range of 40° F to 100° F. Generally, it’s important that the surface be clean, dry, and frost-free for the caulk to properly adhere to the surface.

How do I store silicone caulk?

Push any air out of the nozzle by pushing the caulk all of the way to the tip before tightly replacing the cap. Store in a cool environment. If it is a squeeze tube, push the caulk up out of the nozzle before replacing the cap. Only twist cap until it stops. Do not wrench it or it will sheer and break off. You should squeeze some silicone into the tip of the cap. By doing so, you’ll remove the cured silicone plug when removing the top.

What is the typical cure time (drying time) for silicone caulk?

A 3/16″ bead “normally” completely cures in 24 hours. The cure time could vary depending on the moisture in the air. Lack of humidity will make the curing process slower. If the product shows some sign of curing, such as a change in original consistency, it should cure but might take longer than normal. It might take up to 48 hours for caulk to cure under cooler or dryer conditions.

What does “tooling time” mean?

“Tooling time” is the amount of time you have to work, smooth, tool or otherwise manipulate the silicone caulk once it’s applied.

The silicone caulk is hard in the tube. What should I do?

If the silicone caulk is hard in the tube, it has cured (dried completely). It cannot be used and it most likely has passed its “Shelf life” . If the ” Shelf life” has not been exceeded, the caulk should be returned to the hardware store or retailer for a refund. On a cartridge, you can find the ” Shelf time “. Make sure to check the date prior to purchasing caulk.

The silicone caulk will not cure. What should I do?

Silicone caulk generally cures within 24 hours. If it has been over 24 hours, check the silicone caulk “Shelf life” on the package. If the product is older than the ” Shelf time” date printed on the product, safely dispose of the product. It is too old and will not cure. If the product was used prior to that date, contact a customer service representative at export@mimdy.com for a complete refund.

How do I remove silicone caulk?

Uncured Silicone Caulk Remove (scrape, wipe, dig out, etc.) the uncured caulk and then scrub the area down with isopropyl alcohol (IPA) to remove any remaining oily residue. Only use solvents in a well-ventilated area and follow all safety precautions and instructions listed on the product label or as otherwise provided by the manufacturer.When solvents are used, proper safety precautions must be observed. Cured Silicone Caulk It is difficult to remove silicone from a surface. However, if you must remove it, follow the suggestions below. First, remove as much as possible by cutting/peeling/scraping excess caulk from the surface.   ♦ For ceramic tile, marble, fiberglass, etc., use 100 percent mineral spirits (turpentine) and a non-abrasive scouring pad. Test the mineral spirits on a hidden area of the surface to ensure that discoloration will not occur. If discoloration does occur, contact the manufacturer of the surface for further assistance.   ♦ For glass surfaces, use a razor blade to remove as much as possible, then apply mineral spirits. Remove excess with a towel or other suitable cleaning utensil that will not mark the surface (such as a nonabrasive pad).   ♦ For surfaces that are hard plastics or painted, use rubbing alcohol and a soft cloth. Do not use mineral spir its. Only use these solvents in a well-ventilated area and follow all safety precautions and instructions listed on the product label. When solvents are used, proper safety precautions must be observed.   ♦ To remove caulk from a porous/rough surface (concrete, brick, wallpaper), remove as much of the caulk as possible (same as smooth surface). If necessary, use a wire brush in conjunction with mineral spirits.

NOTE: We do not recommend use of a wire brush to remove caulk from wood surfaces, as doing so could damage the wood. Also, mineral spirits should not be used if the wood has any type of finish on it. Test solvent on a hidden area before applying. Mineral spirits are flammable and should be used away from sparks, flames, and other sources of ignition. Only use these solvents in a well-ventilated area and follow all safety precautions and instructions listed on the product label. When solvents are used, proper safety precautions must be observed. Special notes about silicone caulk: There is nothing that will dissolve silicone. If you are reapplying silicone to the area, remove the old caulk, and then clean the area with a disinfectant. If mold or mildew is present, apply rubbing alcohol. Let the area dry before reapplying silicone. Do not use soap to clean surfaces to be sealed because silicone will not adhere to surfaces covered with any soap scum present.

The caulk is taking a very long time to cure.Why?

The air temperature and humidity in the air can affect how long a silicone caulk takes to cure or an acrylic caulk to dry. A silicone caulk will cure slower when it is cool and the air is dry (low humidity). An acrylic caulk will dry slower when it is cooler out or more humid. Make sure to vary your wait time based on the humidity level.